Dip Powder Manicure: Application, Cost, and Risks (2024)

A gel manicure that lasts two weeks is impressive, but one that can hold up for a whole month? Pinch yourself because you're not dreaming. Enter dip powder nails: a long-wear manicure that lasts up to four weeks without using a UV light to set the polish.

This manicure is perfect if you chip a nail every time you wash the dishes or if you're worried that regular gel manicures are ruining your nails. But before you make dip powders your new go-to service at the salon, we got the lowdown from nail experts Joy Terrell and Dr. Dana Stern on everything there is to know about getting this mani.

Keep reading for our complete guide to dip nails.

What Is a Dip Powder Manicure?

Dip powder manicures have been around for a while, but they were formally dubbed "glue manicures" because of the adhesive used to help the powder stick to the nail. Also called SNS manicures, the technique essentially uses a layering system of acrylic powder and adhesive for maximum sustained durability of up to one month.

"With dip powder, the actual color of the clients' manicure is the color of the powder their nails are dipped into," explains Terrell, whose salon specializes in the service.

Dip Manicure Application Process

Begin by prepping nails. This includes cuticle care, cleansing, and dehydration. Terrell says that this is all done dry because the powder best adheres to dehydrated nails. After the cuticles are pushed back and the nail plate is clear, a dehydrating product like 99 percent alcohol is used to wipe the nails clean. Next comes the actual dipping.

Once a clear adhesive is applied to the nail, it's dipped into a clear powder, which serves as the base and is followed by a color that creates the pigment. The third dip into a sheer powder protects the pigment. In between each dip, the excess powder is brushed away from the nail and a coat of the clear adhesive is applied.

Terrell says that the powder can alternatively be poured onto nails for a more sanitary application. "Double-dipping is never a good thing," explains Dr. Stern. "The salons seem to be aware of this and are now either pouring the powder onto the nail, painting the powder on, or dipping the nail into individual disposable containers of powder." "Clients with longer nails or more active lifestyles require additional coats of color for added strength," Terrell adds.

Once the dipping is done, the nails are buffed and filed down to a smooth finish, and a top coat is applied. The entire process takes 45 minutes to an hour.

Dip Manicure Removal Process

Much like a gel manicure, dip powder nails can be removed at home by soaking the nails in acetone for 10 minutes and wiping them off with a paper towel. However, the powder doesn't always slide off easily, which is bad news for maintaining the health and integrity of the natural nails underneath (more on that below).

Dip Manicure Risks

According to Dr. Stern, the removal process can damage the underlying nail plate. If soaking them in acetone for 10 minutes doesn't work, the nail is going to become thinner when the powder gets scraped off. The electric files that salons use before soaking nails in acetone are also extremely rough on nails.

Regularly putting your nails through the aggressive removal process can also damage the nail matrix, which manifests in lumps, bumps, and white patches on the nail plate. Cuticles can also get infected. The easiest way to avoid this is by giving your nails some breathing room once a month between dip powder manicures, just like you would with gels.

Also, keep in mind that the bonder or adhesive could cause irritation if you're allergic to monomers.

Dip Powder Manicure vs. Gel Nails

So what's the difference between dip nails and your go-to gel manicure? The month-long durability makes a poignant case for the former but really, it's a matter of preference. The biggest differentiators come down to the application technique and price point.

A dip powder manicure eschews the need for a UV-light setting, which can be a major selling point for those concerned with the potentially skin-damaging effects of UV exposure. If those check off your main criteria, it may be worth the slightly higher cost (although this could balance out in the long run due to the increased lifecycle of the manicure).